Day trip to the Russian countryside

Staroutkinsk

Once, it used to be a work settlement, with a thriving metallurgical plant as the core of its lively atmosphere. Nowadays, the old plant in Staroutkinsk has turned into a ruin, surrounded by the yet remaining stunning river, pond, needle-leaved trees, rocks and charming wooden houses.

The locals call this village Staraya Utka, which can be literally translated to “Old Duck”. It is the place where my grandma grew up before permanently moving to my hometown Yekaterinburg. To me, Staroutkinsk represents many things: the generosity of Russian hosts, Russian cuisine, the merging of nature and urbanization, of past and present and, of course, the importance of having a cup of tea together.

From work settlement to a vacation stay

As my family and I drove into Staroutkinsk on a snowy winter day, we did not only drive past one of the usual plaques that indicate the name of the town or city. We also encountered something that looks more like a monument.
A vertically positioned piece of rock supported by another rock and carrying a plaque that seems to be made out of metal.

The combination of the rocks and the metal plaque already shows how nature and industry are two opposite yet integral parts of Staraya Utka. On the left side next to the road, a large lake decorated the view. The rest of the surroundings showed a picturesque view of nature in this part of the Ural region.

As is the fate of many Russian villages with the passing of time, many inhabitants of Staroutkinsk moved to various cities. Therefore, Staroutkinsk nowadays has become more of a holiday or weekend destination. Many houses are now used as the so-called “dachas”, which are personal vacation stays for families residing in one of the nearby located cities.

However, with a population of around 3000 inhabitants (compared to the initial peak of 7000 in the 20^th century), there is another main factor that has contributed to this population decline. With the closing of the prominent metallurgical plant, Staroutkinsk ceased to be the thriving work settlement and source of income for so many families (including my grandparents) that it once used to be. 

An industrial remnant in the midst of nature

The ruin of the plant contrasts with the surrounding idyllic landscape. Next to the building, a beautiful pond stretches over the surface. In winter, the combination of ice and snow transforms this pond into a large white field that locals use for crossing the river faster and for recreational purposes. It becomes a playground, fishing area, ice skating rink and even an ice hockey rink at the same time.

On the other side of the pond, a hill with a cluster of evergreen trees and a row of wooden houses complete the outlook of a peaceful rural environment.

Zakuski, vatrushki and generosity

The beautiful nature in Staroutkinsk is not the only aspect that left an impression on me during my trips to this village. Another thing that stood out is the kindness and generosity of Russian hosts. Even though I consider visiting someone in Russia to be a pleasant experience in general, I find that doing so in the countryside makes the visit even more memorable.

In The Big Bang Theory, Sheldon Cooper considers offering a hot beverage to be a must whenever someone is feeling upset. In Russia, I have noticed that offering a beverage and some food to guests is an implied and essential part of Russian culture in general. Whether you are feeling down or not, the host will usually offer you a cup of tea or coffee with some zakuski (appetizers), sweets, pastry, and sometimes even an entire meal.

In Staroutkinsk, my family and I always visit my grandma’s friend and former colleague. She lives in a lovely house which – just like the village – radiates a combination of the past and the present. The wooden construction that the house is partly made of creates a cosy rural atmosphere. An authentic Russian stove decorates the kitchen. Just like the old plant, the presence of the stove evokes a sensation of going back in time for an instant and feeling the presence of the daily life of past generations.

At her place, it was no exception to getting offered food and a beverage. During the few times that I have visited her, she has always kindly offered me either a bowl of homemade soup, tea with a variety of little snacks (zakuski) or a plate with homemade vatrushki. The latter ones are circular, flat buns that are prepared with yeast dough and have a filling. Usually, the topping is made from quark (“tvorog”), mashed potatoes or jam. But no matter which filling they have, they are definitely worth a try. Especially when combined with a nice cup of tea!

What is your impression of Staroutkinsk and the Russian countryside? Let me know in the comment section!